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Show dog: the thorny path to the pedestal

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CHAPTER 2
GROWING AND EDUCATION OF EXHIBITION DOG

Your task is to get a healthy, strong, physically developed organism from the puppy, well adapted to the living conditions in human society.
Each organism, including us, receives information from the sex cells of the parents. All physical and mental qualities are programmed, but each, relatively speaking, a “complex” trait, defined by a group of genes, develops in some given genetic framework. The upper and lower trims of the frame are the development limits of this trait. Our task, having obtained a puppy with excellent hereditary data, through proper development, is to reach the upper bar of the dog’s genetic capabilities.
Cultivation consists of creating optimal conditions for the physical and mental development of the puppy.

PHYSICAL DEVELOPMENT
Let's start by feeding. One of the main stumbling blocks of veterinarians, physiologists, breeders and just amateurs is to give or not to give commercial feed.
I must say right away that, having been studying nutrition for thirty years, I personally feed dogs only according to classical dietetics. But it is extremely time-consuming and time consuming to provide dogs with essential nutrients found in natural products.
Commercial feeds, distributed all over the world, are widely used in our country. When feeding them, you will not have to worry about providing a balanced diet for your dog.
The selection of the company that produces the food necessary for a given age and physical condition is made individually for each dog. Never save on food, especially a puppy. Having not received the necessary substances in childhood, the dog will never be able to compensate them later. This will affect the development and function of all body systems, including growth, skeleton, muscle development and the immune system.
For those who want to study the issue of nutrition more deeply and cannot attend our RKF courses, I advise you to read fundamental books on nutrition, for example, the work of Professor K.S. Petrovsky "Food Hygiene" (Medicine, M., 1971, v. 1).
Good growth and physical condition of the puppy, lack of dandruff, shiny coat can be a witness to proper feeding. However, the presence of one or all of the above factors may be evidence of poor intrauterine development or the presence of puppy diseases (including liver, intestines, etc.).
What is needed besides nutrition for the good development of the puppy? A huge role in shaping the future show dog movement plays. A sufficient amount of movement ensures the growth and proper functioning of the whole organism.
Those who say that movement is necessary only for muscle development think incorrectly. The backbone is also dependent on movement - the greater the load on it, the stronger and partially massive it becomes.
The development of the heart, lungs, the functioning of the intestines and vascular system, which provides nutrition for all cells of the body, their growth, reproduction and outflow of decay products - all this movement.
The puppy should be able to move as much as he wants. It is impossible to restrict the puppy's movement in the same way as to introduce an additional load. Do not force him to carry heavy loads, wear weighting equipment on his collar, run after a bicycle, etc. This leads to the ugly development of individual parts of the body.
Such a dog will never look harmonious and, despite any excellent inclinations, a ring champion will not work out of it. This is at best. At worst, it will destroy health, become sick (most often the heart suffers), and will shorten its life much.
The puppy should be able to natural movement. These are games at first in a family with brothers, sisters, mother. Then, the host family performs the function of a partner. After the vaccination course, the puppy, and then the adult dog, plays on the street with the owner and other dogs. This is important for both the physical and mental development of the dog. Avoiding a society of their own kind, growing up in isolation, such a dog at the show will be chained and gloomy.
So, there should be a lot of movement daily. Try to bring the puppy several times a day and not leave it to yourself on the street, but play with it and find dogs with which the puppy could frolic. It can be peers or adult dogs. Most importantly, they should be friendly and not have bad habits.
Remember that puppies easily adopt both good and bad from their brothers (not only elders), so the choice of society for a puppy is no less important than for a child.
The puppy must be taught to walk on different soil - earth, sand, gravel. Contrary to the existing misconception that dogs should be kept only on asphalt, the tendons of the paws are better developed on the above substrates.
So, before you start thinking about the exhibition, you need to think about raising your dog that can become a worthy member of human society.

Hardening
An important role in shaping the physical health of a show dog hardening. Hardening is the training of the thermoregulation mechanism.
As you know, exhibitions are in the rain, in the snow, in autumn and spring, at sub-zero temperatures and during the summer heat. Moreover, it is under such weather conditions for hours.
The task is to adequately withstand such weather without curses against her and spoiled her own mood and to prepare the dog for a long stay on the street in any weather.
Tempering a dog is very similar to tempering a person. You must gradually increase the time the dog stays in the air in all weather conditions. This applies equally to smooth-haired and long-haired breeds. On more than one occasion, one has seen shepherd dogs (including collies), terriers, spaniels, etc., freezing in spring and autumn, etc. The owners usually explained monotonously: "Well, she lives in an apartment!"
It is the apartment dogs that it is worth accustoming to staying on the street in different weathers. This will increase the opportunity to walk with the dog longer, strengthen its health, and not be afraid of holding an exhibition in the open.
If it is very cold, you should walk with the dog more often, reducing the time for walking. The dog must always be in motion. In the heat in the open sun, the dog should not be physically loaded. Be sure to provide the opportunity to drink when she wants. The dog should be able to go into the shade so as not to overheat.
However, with regular daily training, you will see that the dog plays outside in frost, rain and heat as willingly as in warm weather, equally loved by us and dogs.

MENTAL DEVELOPMENT
As I said in Chapter 1, “Choosing a Show Dog,” character is also a trait that is inherited, like everything else. Mind, stupidity, obstinacy, gentleness, greed, generosity, desire or unwillingness to work, neurotic traits of character and, finally, mental illness - all this has a hereditary basis.
Now, I hope, you have seen how important it is to choose a dog with good hereditary qualities.
And we hopefully chose her. But the puppy is on the lower bar of opportunities. He may remain on it and all the same, with a good choice, he will be genetically better than a bad puppy, in which they put everything you need to reach the upper bar. Proper cultivation, we must reach the upper limit, that is, to reveal all the possibilities laid down by the parents in the puppy.
We proceed from the fact that we chose a dog with a hereditary strong nervous system, with innate contact, interest in the world around people, dogs, phenomena.
The difference between raising a show dog from a pedigree and a room dog. Pedigree dogs should have proper nutrition and enough movement. She can live in a nursery and there is no need to develop her intelligence.
A companion dog may be limited to a daily walk in the same yard, she may not play and not communicate with dogs. Of course, living in a city, she should not be aggressive towards people and dogs. By the way, I’ll say right away the unanimous opinion of all the psychiatrists of the world - dogs that rush at people and other dogs are kept by mentally unstable, dependent, complexing people. It does not mean that the owner is two meters tall and with a shaved head. It is these who are looking for an ally in the dog, which would strengthen their self-confidence.
A truly strong person will never keep a vicious dog in the city. Anyone who has crossed the border of our country knows very well what friendly dogs and people are in all countries of the world. The justification that a dog is protecting someone and something in the city is a fairy tale for children. What can a dog do against a weapon, even a gas one?
All the production and training of dogs in Russia as bodyguards is nothing more than a publicity stunt. After such training, dogs become unacceptable both for others and for the owner in a big city.
So, before you start thinking about the exhibition, you need to take care of raising your dog that can become a worthy member of human society.
A properly trained show dog is more likely to succeed in the ring.
When you start walking with a puppy, your task is to introduce him to the whole diversity of the world and teach him how to react correctly to objects and phenomena that surround us.
the puppy must be led out onto the street on a leash so that it is always under control. Divide the walking time into games and running the puppy without a leash in an isolated, safe place and driving on a leash through the city streets. Gradually introduce the puppy to people, vehicles, encouraging him if he is frightened of something. Approach yourself to the object that causes fright, gently call the puppy to you. Carefully train your puppy to rattling trucks, trains, take-off planes. Encourage your puppy with an affectionate voice and confident behavior if he is shy.
I remind you again that accustoming dogs (puppies) with a good psyche to the crowd and transport of a big city is not difficult, and difficulties arise only with mentally unstable individuals. As a special case, quite often there are dogs with a low sound threshold, leading to a dog's fear of the sounds of gunfire, thunder, fireworks, which is practically not correctable.
On the first attempt, strictly and firmly forbid the puppy to rush after cats, pigeons, dogs. Having acquainted him with various pets outside the city, teach him to be indifferent to them. It is indifferent, that is, not to come close, not friendly. Indifference to other animals and people will be optimal at the exhibition.
A goat, a cow and a horse may not understand a dog who wants to play. Often you will not have time to explain to the owner of the chicken or duck armed with a club that the dog did not want to do anything bad to the animal.
The dog must be able to ride all the main modes of transport - tram, trolley, metro (in a bag, cage), train, car. Moreover, these trips should not oppress her, otherwise the stress of a trip to the exhibition will affect the quality of the dog in the ring.
The puppy you grow up should love the company of dogs, willingly play with them, but should prefer your society and immediately leave the dogs on the "To me" command.
These tasks cannot be solved by force. It is impossible to force oneself to love oneself. But you must fall in love with your dog. Go ahead! If this does not work, look for errors at home. The good contact required by the show dog is honed and verified by the quality of the “To me” command. For a show dog, close contact with the owner and a desire to work are important.
I am not talking now about learning to perform a particular command. You can find the training technique in any of the many books on dog training. The main thing that you understand - any dog ​​must be taught to teams from early childhood. This, firstly, makes the dog obey and shows it which of the two of you occupies a higher position, who commands and to whom they obey, and secondly, it disciplines the dog at home, while walking, traveling, etc.
The dog of each breed must know and firmly carry out (and not just know) the commands "To me", "Sit", "Stand", "Lie", "Nearby" and "It is impossible".
I want to remind you that daily dog ​​lessons along with games establish and develop the owner’s contact with the dog, which will positively affect the dog’s work in the ring and the quality of its display at the exhibition.

FIRST EXHIBITION
Your dog, prepared in accordance with all the rules, should go to the exhibition tomorrow! Today she is resting, and you are collecting everything you need for the exhibition. For myself - comfortable and beautiful clothes and shoes, food and drink. Do not forget the umbrella from the rain or the sun, if the exhibition takes place on the street.
For the dog - documents, a drinker, a small amount of food (if the dog is used to eating during the day), bedding and ammunition, which the dog is used to. A dog is taught to exhibit ammunition in advance during an exhibition training.
Do not fuss, do not be nervous and do not make the dog nervous! Go to bed early after having walked the dog well.
In the morning, walk with the dog in a quiet place for at least half an hour and feed a voluminous, hearty meal. Cottage cheese or eggs, or meat soaked in broth. A large amount of food causes thirst, you can’t drink the dog - she will be worried, so be sure to take water to the exhibition.
And here you are at the exhibition. Having passed the veterinary control, find your ring, find out the time when your dog should undergo examination and look for a quiet place where you can arrange a dog. If the ring starts in two or three hours or more, it is better if the dog is in its place and you are nearby.
If you arrived in the morning and the ring in the afternoon, find the opportunity to walk the dog in the middle of the day so that it empties the intestines and bladder. A dog recovering during an examination makes a disgusting impression and forms an appropriate attitude among the expert and those around him.
Half an hour before the ring, walk with the dog, it should stretch its muscles. Find a free area and necessarily go with the dog a few laps of a show trot.
Entering the ring should be energetic, but not nervous. Your mood is conveyed to the dog, so take care of yourself. The dog should feel your interest in it, all attention should be shared between the dog and the expert for whom you are exhibiting the dog. You should not just be in the ring and do what the expert asks, namely show to judge dog while staying in the ring.
Having passed the examination, praise the dog and, if you are not a participant in the following contests, go home so as not to tire the dog. She should have a pleasant memory of the exhibition. It is very important!
Often, the aggression of another dog, sharp jerking with a leash, multiple prohibiting commands do not contribute to a positive attitude of the dog to the exhibition. I hope that this will not happen for you and the first successful show for you and for the dog will be the key to the future successful career of your pet.

CHAPTER 1. SELECTION OF EXHIBITION DOG

Why is the dog shown at the show?
People who love to show dogs are athletes. This kind of sport is widespread and quite popular throughout the world. Now, with the creation of a single cynological system in our country - the Russian Cynological Federation (RKF), dog breeders can engage in this most exciting sport. Any athlete wants to win. But, as you know, only one wins.And the rest are happy with participation in their favorite sport and expects to increase their successes in the future. So, the goal of this book is to teach owners to do their utmost to defeat their dog. The main thing is the dog itself, the data of your pet as a future show dog.

These necessary qualities consist of excellent exterior data and good mental properties of the dog. One is inseparable from the other. A beautiful exterior dog with a sluggish temperament, either overly shy or overly emotional, “burning out” in the first hours of being among people and dogs, will never be a ring fighter. One also does not have to talk about a dog with a medium exterior as a real show dog.

So, for the show dog are equally important:
EXTERIOR + PSYCHE.

Your task is to choose a dog with excellent genetic data on the required qualities and then develop these qualities to the possible perfection. Therefore, do not spare time for searching and choosing a future pet. Only a rare case can help you quickly find what you want. Of course, it is better to get a puppy in a well-established nursery that values ​​its reputation. The owner of the nursery should be a decent person with a good reputation and a knowledgeable canine specialist.

If the breeder tells you that at the age of two months you buy the future champion from him for $ 2000, and for sure the future "excellent" for $ 1500 - run away from him: this is a charlatan! No self-respecting breeder in the world will say this, because it is impossible to determine the quality of a puppy at that age. However, there are exceptions. If you are a fan of playing with fate, try taking a chance!

The qualities of the future show dog are most reliably determined between four and six months. This is the conclusion of the whole world. What should we do if puppies are sold at the age of one and a half to two months? The only way out is to study the parents of your future dog as best as possible. However, keep in mind that champions do not always give birth to champions. It is more important to find out what these manufacturers give. See how many champions and high rated dogs were born from them. Choose manufacturers from which numerous ring winners.

There are many champions who have not given offspring with high qualities in their lives, and there are only excellent dogs that are parents of numerous excellent offspring. The stable qualities of the latter give great guarantees to the future of the puppy.

Once again, please remember - it’s worthwhile to stop at certain manufacturers, getting to know their descendants rather closely, and not just one, but several! Inspection is preferably carried out and discussed with a specialist who is trustworthy.

The selection for the psyche is carried out in a similar way. Immediately rejected, cowardly, timid dogs, with a sluggish temperament, with any manifestation of aggressiveness for breeds that are unusual for this. Refuse stubborn and stupid dogs that are in poor contact with the owner.

Never attach importance to the words: "She has a bad master, brings up incorrectly, so she bites" or "She had a difficult childhood," or "The master does not know how to cope with her." The British write correctly: "We do not have much time to spend it on the correction of dogs."

A dog with a good heredity adapts itself to the person, tries to please the owner, wants to do what he likes, and to earn praise is the highest joy for her! Talking with such a dog is a pleasure and a joy. These dogs are bred by the best breeders in the world. And we must strive for this.

So, the parents of your future dog must have a wonderful psyche and, in addition, they must pass this type of psyche to their children. However, the undesirable qualities of both the exterior and the behavior may be due to the presence of such properties in more distant ancestors than parents. Therefore, study the pedigrees of dogs as thoroughly as possible.

We must not forget about physical health, the basis of which is also heredity. There are a lot of hereditary diseases of dogs. There are diseases identified immediately - cleft palate, fused fingers, hernias, blindness, deafness, etc. But there is a hereditary predisposition to various diseases, which can manifest itself at any age. This is a tendency to allergies, heart failure, hormonal disorders, metabolic disease, impaired vision, etc. You must be sure that the parents of the future puppy, his grandfathers and grandmothers were absolutely healthy and did not suffer from any physical ailments. Do not pay attention to the words: "He was poorly fed," "Walked with him a little." If there is a defect, there is always a hereditary predisposition!

To summarize:
you choose a puppy from parents with excellent exterior, having high-quality offspring, with excellent psyche, physically absolutely healthy, from serious breeders who are responsible for the quality of puppies sold.

CHAPTER 2. GROWING AND EDUCATION OF EXHIBITION DOG.

Your task is to get a healthy, strong, physically developed organism from the puppy, well adapted to the living conditions in human society. Each organism, including us, receives information from the sex cells of the parents. All physical and mental qualities are programmed, but each, relatively speaking, a “complex” trait, defined by a group of genes, develops in some given genetic framework. The upper and lower trims of the frame are the development limits of this trait. Our task, having obtained a puppy with excellent hereditary data, through proper development, is to reach the upper bar of the dog’s genetic capabilities. Cultivation consists of creating optimal conditions for the physical and mental development of the puppy.

PHYSICAL DEVELOPMENT.
Let's start by feeding. One of the main stumbling blocks of veterinarians, physiologists, breeders and just amateurs is to give or not to give commercial feed. I must say right away that, having been studying nutrition for thirty years, I personally feed dogs only according to classical dietetics. But it is extremely time-consuming and time consuming to provide dogs with essential nutrients found in natural products. Commercial feeds, distributed all over the world, are widely used in our country. When feeding them, you will not have to worry about providing a balanced diet for your dog.

The selection of the company that produces the food necessary for a given age and physical condition is made individually for each dog. Never save on food, especially a puppy. Having not received the necessary substances in childhood, the dog will never be able to compensate them later. This will affect the development and function of all body systems, including growth, skeleton, muscle development and the immune system. For those who want to study the issue of nutrition more deeply and cannot attend our RKF courses, I advise you to read fundamental books on nutrition, for example, the work of Professor K.S. Petrovsky "Food Hygiene" (Medicine, M., 1971, v. 1).

Good growth and physical condition of the puppy, lack of dandruff, shiny coat can be a witness to proper feeding. However, the presence of one or all of the above factors may be evidence of poor intrauterine development or the presence of puppy diseases (including liver, intestines, etc.). What is needed besides nutrition for the good development of the puppy? The movement plays a huge role in shaping the future show dog. A sufficient amount of movement ensures the growth and proper functioning of the whole organism.

Those who say that movement is necessary only for muscle development think incorrectly. The backbone is also dependent on movement - the greater the load on it, the stronger and partially massive it becomes.

The development of the heart, lungs, the functioning of the intestines and vascular system, which provides nutrition for all cells of the body, their growth, reproduction and outflow of decay products - all this movement.

The puppy should be able to move as much as he wants. It is impossible to restrict the puppy's movement in the same way as to introduce an additional load. Do not force him to carry heavy loads, wear weighting equipment on his collar, run after a bicycle, etc. This leads to the ugly development of individual parts of the body.

Such a dog will never look harmonious and, despite any excellent inclinations, a ring champion will not work out of it. This is at best. At worst, it will destroy health, become sick (most often the heart suffers), and will shorten its life much.

The puppy must be able to naturally move. These are games at first in a family with brothers, sisters, mother. Then, the host family performs the function of a partner. After the vaccination course, the puppy, and then the adult dog, plays on the street with the owner and other dogs. This is important for both the physical and mental development of the dog. Avoiding a society of their own kind, growing up in isolation, such a dog at the show will be chained and gloomy.

So, there should be a lot of movement daily. Try to bring the puppy several times a day and not leave it to yourself on the street, but play with it and find dogs with which the puppy could frolic. It can be peers or adult dogs. Most importantly, they should be friendly and not have bad habits. Remember that puppies easily adopt both good and bad from their brothers (not only elders), so the choice of society for a puppy is no less important than for a child. The puppy must be taught to walk on different soil - earth, sand, gravel. Contrary to the existing misconception that dogs should be kept only on asphalt, the tendons of the paws are better developed on the above substrates.

So, before you start thinking about the exhibition, you need to think about raising your dog that can become a worthy member of human society.

Hardening
An important role in the formation of the physical health of the show dog belongs to hardening. Hardening is the training of the thermoregulation mechanism. As you know, exhibitions are in the rain, in the snow, in autumn and spring, at sub-zero temperatures and during the summer heat. Moreover, it is under such weather conditions for hours.

The task is to adequately withstand such weather without curses against her and spoiled her own mood and to prepare the dog for a long stay on the street in any weather. Tempering a dog is very similar to tempering a person. You should gradually increase the dog’s exposure time in all weather conditions. This applies equally to smooth-haired and long-haired breeds. On more than one occasion, one has seen shepherd dogs (including collies), terriers, spaniels, etc., freezing in spring and autumn, etc. The owners usually explained monotonously: "Well, she lives in an apartment!"

It is the apartment dogs that it is worth accustoming to staying on the street in different weathers. This will increase the opportunity to walk with the dog longer, strengthen its health, and not be afraid of holding an exhibition in the open.

If it is very cold, you should walk with the dog more often, reducing the time for walking. The dog must always be in motion. In the heat in the open sun, the dog should not be physically loaded. Be sure to provide the opportunity to drink when she wants. The dog should be able to go into the shade so as not to overheat. However, with regular daily training, you will see that the dog plays outside in frost, rain and heat as willingly as in warm weather, equally loved by us and dogs.

MENTAL DEVELOPMENT
As I said in Chapter 1, “Choosing a Show Dog,” character is also a trait that is inherited, like everything else. Mind, stupidity, obstinacy, gentleness, greed, generosity, desire or unwillingness to work, neurotic traits of character and, finally, mental illness - all this has a hereditary basis. Now, I hope, you have seen how important it is to choose a dog with good hereditary qualities.

And we hopefully chose her. But the puppy is on the lower bar of opportunities. He may remain on it and all the same, with a good choice, he will be genetically better than a bad puppy, in which they put everything you need to reach the upper bar. Proper cultivation, we must reach the upper limit, that is, to reveal all the possibilities laid down by the parents in the puppy.

We proceed from the fact that we chose a dog with a hereditary strong nervous system, with innate contact, interest in the world around people, dogs, phenomena. The difference between raising a show dog from a pedigree and a room dog. Pedigree dogs should have proper nutrition and enough movement. She can live in a nursery and there is no need to develop her intelligence.

A companion dog may be limited to a daily walk in the same yard, she may not play and not communicate with dogs. Of course, living in a city, she should not be aggressive towards people and dogs. By the way, I’ll say right away the unanimous opinion of all the psychiatrists of the world - dogs that rush at people and other dogs are kept by mentally unstable, dependent, complexing people. It does not mean that the owner is two meters tall and with a shaved head. It is these who are looking for an ally in the dog, which would strengthen their self-confidence.

A truly strong person will never keep a vicious dog in the city. Anyone who has crossed the border of our country knows very well what friendly dogs and people are in all countries of the world. The justification that a dog is protecting someone and something in the city is a fairy tale for children. What can a dog do against a weapon, even a gas one? All the production and training of dogs in Russia as bodyguards is nothing more than a publicity stunt. After such training, dogs become unacceptable both for others and for the owner in a big city.

So, before you start thinking about the exhibition, you need to take care of raising your dog that can become a worthy member of human society. A properly trained show dog is more likely to succeed in the ring.

When you start walking with a puppy, your task is to introduce him to the whole diversity of the world and teach him how to react correctly to objects and phenomena that surround us. the puppy must be led out onto the street on a leash so that it is always under control. Divide the walking time into games and running the puppy without a leash in an isolated, safe place and driving on a leash through the city streets. Gradually introduce the puppy to people, vehicles, encouraging him if he is frightened of something. Approach yourself to the object that causes fright, gently call the puppy to you. Carefully train your puppy to rattling trucks, trains, take-off planes. Encourage your puppy with an affectionate voice and confident behavior if he is shy.

I remind you again that accustoming dogs (puppies) with a good psyche to the crowd and transport of a big city is not difficult, and difficulties arise only with mentally unstable individuals. As a special case, quite often there are dogs with a low sound threshold, leading to a dog's fear of the sounds of gunfire, thunder, fireworks, which is practically not correctable.

On the first attempt, strictly and firmly forbid the puppy to rush after cats, pigeons, dogs. Having acquainted him with various pets outside the city, teach him to be indifferent to them. It is indifferent, that is, not to come close, not friendly. Indifference to other animals and people will be optimal at the exhibition. A goat, a cow and a horse may not understand a dog who wants to play. Often you will not have time to explain to the owner of the chicken or duck armed with a club that the dog did not want to do anything bad to the animal.

The dog must be able to ride all the main modes of transport - tram, trolley, metro (in a bag, cage), train, car. Moreover, these trips should not oppress her, otherwise the stress of a trip to the exhibition will affect the quality of the dog in the ring. The puppy you raised should love the company of dogs, play with them willingly, but should prefer your company and immediately leave the dogs on the “To me” command. These tasks cannot be solved by force. It is impossible to force oneself to love oneself. But you must fall in love with your dog. Go ahead! If this does not work, look for errors at home. The good contact required by the show dog is honed and verified by the quality of the “To me” command. For a show dog, close contact with the owner and a desire to work are important.

I am not talking now about learning to perform a particular command. You can find the training technique in any of the many books on dog training. The main thing that you understand - any dog ​​must be taught to teams from early childhood. This, firstly, makes the dog obey and shows it which of the two of you occupies a higher position, who commands and to whom they obey, and secondly, it disciplines the dog at home, while walking, traveling, etc.

A dog of each breed should know and firmly carry out (and not only know) the commands “To me”, “Sit”, “Stand”, “Lie”, “Near” and “You can’t.” I want to remind you that daily dog ​​lessons along with games establish and develop contact of the owner with the dog, which will subsequently positively affect the work of the dog in the ring, the quality of its display at the exhibition.

FIRST EXHIBITION
Your dog, prepared in accordance with all the rules, should go to the exhibition tomorrow! Today she is resting, and you are collecting everything you need for the exhibition. For myself - comfortable and beautiful clothes and shoes, food and drink. Do not forget the umbrella from the rain or the sun, if the exhibition takes place on the street.

For the dog - documents, a drinker, a small amount of food (if the dog is used to eating during the day), bedding and ammunition, which the dog is used to. A dog is taught to exhibit ammunition in advance during an exhibition training.

Do not fuss, do not be nervous and do not make the dog nervous! Go to bed early after having walked the dog well. In the morning, walk with the dog in a quiet place for at least half an hour and feed a voluminous, hearty meal. Cottage cheese or eggs, or meat soaked in broth. A large amount of food causes thirst, you can’t drink the dog - she will be worried, so be sure to take water to the exhibition.

And here you are at the exhibition. Having passed the veterinary control, find your ring, find out the time when your dog should undergo examination and look for a quiet place where you can arrange a dog. If the ring starts in two or three hours or more, it is better if the dog is in its place and you are nearby.

If you arrived in the morning and the ring in the afternoon, find the opportunity to walk the dog in the middle of the day so that it empties the intestines and bladder. A dog recovering during an examination makes a disgusting impression and forms an appropriate attitude among the expert and those around him.

Half an hour before the ring, walk with the dog, it should stretch its muscles. Find a free area and be sure to go with the dog a few laps of the show trot. Entering the ring should be energetic, but not nervous. Your mood is conveyed to the dog, so take care of yourself. The dog should feel your interest in it, all attention should be shared between the dog and the expert for whom you are exhibiting the dog. You should not just be in the ring and do what the expert asks, namely, show the judge a dog while you are in the ring.

Having passed the examination, praise the dog and, if you are not a participant in the following contests, go home so as not to tire the dog. She should have a pleasant memory of the exhibition. It is very important!

Often, the aggression of another dog, sharp jerking with a leash, multiple prohibiting commands do not contribute to a positive attitude of the dog to the exhibition. I hope that this will not happen for you and the first successful show for you and for the dog will be the key to the future successful career of your pet.

CHAPTER 3. CARE OF HAIR.

The exhibition has very large requirements for wool. Firstly, the color, length, structure of the hair, the shape of the hairs, their thickness, direction of growth, density, shade, luster are strictly regulated by the standard of each breed, and the expert carefully examines all these pedigree indicators in each dog. Secondly, the condition of the coat is an indicator of the physiological state of the dog - only a healthy dog ​​can have a perfect coat. Thirdly, a good coat emphasizes the beauty of the animal, plays a huge role in the aesthetically holistic perception of the dog.

Never a dog with poor hair and poorly trained (we are talking about long-haired and wire-haired breeds), will not be able to become a winner. If you are going to keep a breed in which the hair is no less important than the article (for example, a poodle), you should choose a puppy from parents who have excellent hair. This will give more assurance that the offspring will have good coat.

As always, the first condition for proper good coat is hereditary data. If genetically good wool is not programmed, you will not achieve it with any preparations or any tricks. Within the framework of genetic assignment, you can achieve the maximum development of the trait if you perform the necessary actions aimed at this. And, conversely, lower the bar to a minimum if the dog does not get what it needs. Even with excellent hereditary data, proper hair care is necessary.

Each breed has its own set of tools for grooming. The owner of the dog must stock up on the necessary items before purchasing it. Care consists of daily and periodic procedures. Daily care is combing, periodic - washing, plucking wool (in wirecoats), cutting. From two months old, a puppy of any breed must be accustomed to combing with a brush, comb or both. The puppy must behave calmly throughout the combing procedure. If he makes an attempt to break out or bite, say “No” sharply, hold tight with your second hand, and if necessary, you can shake the puppy. Get right puppy behavior right when combing. After combing the puppy, he can be praised and awarded a piece of goodies, but this is not necessary. Combing refers to such manipulations as manual control at the show, which the dog may not like, but must obey. While combing the limbs, inspect the claws and trim them if necessary.

Plucking wool and shearing is the accepted processing of wool in a number of breeds. The pinch removes dead hair and is a kind of artificial seasonal molt. With the help of tweezing and cutting, a characteristic appearance for the breed is created.

I intentionally do not give here a pinch technique and a haircut model of different breeds. Firstly, you cannot cook an exhibition dog from a book. You need to use literature along with the advice of a professional master. Secondly, dog hairstyle models are changing, and the owner of a particular dog should always be aware of today's fashion and the secrets of the best preparation of this breed for the exhibition.

However, I do not want to say at all that the final preparation of the dog for the exhibition should be left to the hairdresser. The owner, who wants to prepare his dog, is quite capable of doing this if he diligently learns from the masters, is not afraid to “spoil” his dog (but does not need to experiment before the show), and will passionately want to make his dog beautiful.

The ability to "make" a good dog has at least half the owners. The trouble is that not many risk starting to work with wool. Wool and skin are cleaned by regular combing with special talcum powder for cleaning the dog, bathing with shampoos. Recommending specific detergents is hopeless. The owner must choose what suits his dog. In addition, the same result can be obtained by different means. Choose the right tool and always use it.

In no case do not experiment with a new tool before the exhibition, no matter how energetically you are advised by dog ​​breeders and even hairdressers. The frequency of bathing dogs depends on the particular breed and the individual characteristics of the coat. For example, I washed my Welsh Terrier once in seventeen years of his life. Poodles - once every 20 days before shearing. There are breeds that need to be washed once every 7 to 10 days. The main thing - the show dog should always be with impeccable hair. Feeding and walking plays an important role in the condition of the coat. The lack of animal proteins, vitamins, trace elements changes the structure, density of the hair, makes it brittle, dull, dandruff appears, even the shade of the coat changes and, of course, the gloss so desirable for most breeds disappears.

Long walks increase blood circulation, which helps to improve hair nutrition. So, the four components of a good coat: hereditary qualities, feeding, walking and regular care.

CHAPTER 4. CARE OF CLAWS AND TEETH.

The claws begin to trim the puppy from the age of two weeks and then continue this procedure all his life as necessary. The length of the claws and the speed of their growth and, accordingly, the need for their shortening depends on the structure of the paw and the individual characteristics of growth and on the ground on which the dog moves. Paws in a lump with arched fingers direct the growth of the claws down, which leads to their good grinding. Paws open with flat fingers make the claws grow parallel to the ground, the claws do not grind, because they do not rest against the ground and they have to be cut regularly.

Convenient guillotine shears for trimming claws are now sold. When trimming, position the light source behind the claw to be trimmed so that its "body" is visible. Trim by stepping 2 - 3 mm forward.

Long claws interfere with the correct assessment of the shape of the paw, make it difficult to walk, so the claws of dogs at the show should be of the required length, that is, not touch the ground. Clean white teeth are confirmation of the physical health of the dog. Yellow plaque is removed with tomato juice, lemon juice, specially sold pastes. American breeders recommend a composition of salt and soda in equal proportions. You need to rub with a cotton swab or soft cloth, but not with a brush, as the bristles can get stuck between the teeth and cause inflammation. I managed to remove a small plaque with a piece of apple.

Tartar is removed with a special spatula. A large amount of stone on pseudo-rooted and molars is best left to the veterinarian, which is done under general anesthesia.

Do not start your teeth! They should always be in order with any dog, especially a participant in a beauty contest.

CHAPTER 5. TRAINING EXHIBITION DOG WORK IN THE RING.

REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DOG IN THE RING

First of all, you need to clearly imagine what you need to demonstrate to the dog in the ring and what it is for.

1. Handler must show the expert an occlusion and presence of teeth.

2. The handler with the dog in the group must trot the required number of laps in the ring.

3. The handler with the dog must run a circle (or several).

4. A handler with a dog should clearly run in a straight uniform, wide, characteristic breed of trot, run from the expert and return to him precisely in a straight line. Sometimes a circle is replaced with a triangle with a wide base. This route combines the movement in a circle (the base of the triangle) of the movement "from" and "to" the expert.

5. The dog should stand in the exterior rack and stand motionless for 1 - 1.5 minutes during manual control, its assessment and description by its expert.

First of all, we will understand why this is necessary.

1. Examination of the teeth.
Inspection is carried out in order to determine the bite and establish the number of teeth of the dog. The procedure is divided into two stages:
a) determination of the closure of the incisors and the position of the fangs,
b) determining the number of all teeth. This is done as follows. The owner puts the dog next to or in front of him, raises the head of the dog, but does not bully.
Bares the front teeth of the dog (incisors and fangs) and gums (to determine the pigment of their mucosa).

Then, either a) opens the mouth and holds for a while so that the expert can see all the teeth, or b) when the mouth is closed, exposes all the lateral teeth (molars and premolars) on one side and the other, giving the expert time to count the teeth.

Sometimes experts push their lips apart to determine the occlusion and the presence of teeth, so the dog must be taught to calmly relate to both procedures.

2. Movement in a group in a circle.
Dogs should move straight ahead in front of them, not jumping, not trying to play with the owner or with each other, especially not to let them bark or be aggressive towards dogs or people. The optimal distance between them is the body of the dog.

Dogs trot 2-4 laps at the discretion of the expert to determine the general level of this group.

3. Individual examination of the dog.
3.1. The movement in a circle is necessary so that the expert can create a general impression of the dog. During this movement is evaluated:
a) the manner of bearing the head,
b) the fortress of the top,
c) step width,
d) the coordination of movement of the front and hind limbs,
d) the degree of disclosure of the angles of articulation,
f) freedom of movement, the strength of the joints;
g) the manner of carrying the tail.

Movements should be uniform, free, most beneficial for the dog.

3.2. Direct movement from and to the expert is necessary to determine the location of the front and hind limbs relative to the longitudinal axis of the dog’s body. At the same time, the direction and strength of the elbow joints, metacarpals of the legs, knee and hock joints, metatarsus, as well as the parallelism and width of the limbs are evaluated.

3.3. Stand, manual control.

A detailed examination of the dog and determination of its compliance with the breed standard is carried out by checking the palpation of all or individual articles of the dog. This is more important for long-haired and wire-haired breeds, but many Western and domestic judges prefer to do this with smooth-haired breeds. I give the arguments for.

Manual control allows a better assessment of the type of dog’s nervous system, which is crucial in breeding. A dog, panicky afraid of an expert, no matter what breed it is, does not have the right to apply for a breeding assessment. Then, more precisely, you can establish the strength of the top and the structure of individual parts of the body and limbs. It is very important to establish the condition of the dog, especially the coat and skin.

With manual control, the dog should behave calmly and any dog ​​with a fairly good psyche can be accustomed to this. The British, however, write that the trainer is able to prepare the dog for the exhibition with an insufficiently stable temperament for manual control. However, this, I am sure, is an exception, and we are talking about most dogs.

So, the dog was subjected to manual inspection and began to describe. The dog should stand in an exhibition stand characteristic of the breed, calmly, confidently and motionless. At this time, the judge describes the dog and decides what grade it will receive.

It is impossible to overestimate the significance of all stages. At shows, as a rule, better-trained and featured dogs win than their more "exterior" dogs, but worse ones shown. Therefore, let's move on to the main thing, how to make a winning dog, how to teach it to perfectly demonstrate its qualities.

ORDER OF TRAINING DOGS WORK IN THE RING.
Pay attention to the title of this chapter - it follows from it that you must train your dog to work.What to teach - you already know. Now about how to do it. I want to warn you that it is in vain to look in foreign (I'm not talking about ours) books for detailed information on the preparation of a ring dog. It is believed that every owner or handler has secrets that are carefully hidden from competitors. But I will try to tell absolutely everything about the general principles of preparation and training of a show dog. So, ring training should be started from the moment of acquiring a puppy, that is, from two to two and a half months. Ring training should be carried out in parallel with general training, games, establishing and maintaining contact with the dog.

I had to see in the ring dogs of any breed well-shown, but poorly in contact with the lead. The only exceptions were American cockers — brilliant handling and the inability to establish that it was only a training or, nevertheless, training, plus contact.

The first thing to start is to identify the words of the team.
I suggest those words that I apply myself.
"Work". This means that the ring training will begin now.
"Teeth" - a team before showing teeth.
"Boxing ring". It means a requirement to accept an exhibition stand. I do not recommend using the "Stand" command. In training, it means stopping the dog or assuming a standing position from the “lying” or “sitting” position.
"Lynx". On this command, the dog must run a uniform, sweeping trot at a speed characteristic of the breed.

Let's start with the rack. Each breed has its own characteristic stance and a specific position of the hind limbs. This is very important for the correct assessment of individual articles and the harmony of the dog as a whole. Therefore, to learn the correct stance for your breed is the first task before starting a ring training.

The puppy accustomed to the collar and leash, put on the floor (or on the table - from cocker and lower in size), give the command "Ring". The dog is given the required position with his hands. To secure a stand for some breeds, it is allowed to hold dogs under the stomach and under the lower jaw (for example, a cocker spaniel), while others require a free stand. The most excitable dogs can be fixed in the rack on some object or a piece of goodies, if it does not unnecessarily excite the dog. The owner, standing in front of the dog, and holding his hand with the object at some distance from the dog, pronounces the “Ring” command, achieving an immovable stance for at least 30 seconds.

As soon as the puppy takes the desired position for at least 3 seconds, joyfully praise him and give him a treat. First, hold the dog by the collar, with the correct stance, release the collar, not allowing the puppy to move.

Do not say unnecessary words, do not condemn the puppy if taking the right pose will take longer than you expect. Be patient and persistent. The team should end with its execution, but not somehow, but immediately. From the first time, the puppy must understand what is required of him. If you decide that for the first time “it will work out,” and then it will be better, you will drag out the process of practicing reception for a long time and it’s always harder to retrain than to learn to do everything right away.

Exercise regularly, daily two to three times a day, on the floor or on the table (who needs it). Always on a leash to prevent the puppy from running away. 3 - 5 seconds of stance is enough for a puppy of two to five months to fix the “Ring” team with a fixed pose in a beautiful, exhibition stance characteristic of the breed.

In the future, transfer the training from home to the street, to other rooms selected for training, to the training ground, where the dog must learn to work in a group.

EXHIBITION TRAINING
A puppy accustomed to walking on the street is taken to an isolated area where there are no people and dogs, fasten the leash, give the command "Work" and the command "Lynx". Start with a slow uniform trot without jumps and gradually switch to a faster one, revealing for yourself the maximum possibilities of the step length (trotting) of the dog.

If the dog runs as we would like, repeat “Lynx, lynx, good,” encouraging the dog to voice, if it stalls and jumps, pull the leash, say “No!” Sharply. and keep moving to get what you want. Before your stop, the dog must run at the same pace. First, you run in a straight line 20 - 25 meters, increasing the distance to 5 - 100 meters.

The distance increases as the puppy grows up and depends on his physical condition, as well as his temperament. The most important thing is that the puppy does not bother the lessons, that he loves them and sees that the owner really likes it. Praise your puppy often for the right action. When the rectilinear movement has been worked out, proceed to the movement in a circle with a large (at least 10 meters) radius.

After completing a lynx on command and a stand on command, combine both teams. Alternate movement in a circle with running in a straight line forward and backward, and then stopping with a "demonstration" of the exhibition stand. Remember to give commands and encourage the dog after doing what is required.

Now preparing for manual control. Another command is introduced, for example, "Inspection". This word means that if a person comes up and the owner says "Inspection", then a person can touch the dog like an expert does, and there should be an opportunity to examine the teeth. Engage both acquaintances (at the beginning) and unfamiliar dogs for the classes. Teach them how to touch the dog, starting from the head, literally from the tip of the nose, neck, top, chest, stomach, tail, fore and hind limbs, including paws, paw pads and claws. Remember to say “Inspect” and say “No!” sharply if the dog resists.

It is necessary to ensure that the dog stood in one place, without twitching in different directions, which complicates the inspection and often leads to an incorrect assessment of the articles. If desired, your perseverance and under the indispensable condition of a good psyche, the dogs quickly realize that a person who touches them on command is not at all an enemy to bite. The dog understands that this is a job that needs to be done on command, to endure a touch in the end (there are dogs who do not like the touch of even the owner).

Did you find everything very difficult? This is not so, dear reader! Ring training is an extremely fascinating affair for the dog and for the owner. You will know your pet better, and he will know you better! You cooperate, working with him, partner, and this is exactly what the dog appeared in the house of a man! And finally, the easiest to practice and the most unpleasant for the expert, if the dog does not perform - showing teeth.

Every morning, greeting the dog, put it down (required), give the command “Teeth”, expose the bite, not allowing you to turn your head, and praise. Carefully open your mouth and hold for 2 to 10 seconds. (Then you need to lengthen the time as much as you need to count all the teeth).

Praise and encourage a treat. Bare your teeth to the left (to the last), then to the right and praise the dog again. Do this daily and you will never have any problems with showing your teeth. So, your dog learned by the “Work” command to understand that the demonstration will now begin:
reception "lynx" - in a circle, triangle, straight line,
reception "ring" - a ring rack,
reception "inspection" - passing manual control,
receiving "teeth" - examination of the bite and the presence of teeth.

Now your task is to teach the dog to do all this in a group, with a large crowd of people, indoors and outdoors. There is a training system for this. For dogs that are regularly exhibited, training is carried out daily for 15 minutes once or twice a day in different places.

For adult dogs exhibiting once or twice a year, provided that they are fully trained and perform “perfectly” all methods of full show training, training can be 2 times a week. A month before the exhibition, training is carried out daily for 15 to 20 minutes.

CHAPTER 6. PREPARATION FOR EXHIBITION SHOW OF ADULT DOG.

No handler can work a miracle and correctly show an unprepared dog. It is possible to prepare a dog for a ring show at any age, subject to a normal psyche.

Training for an adult, untrained dog starts no less than two months before the show. First of all, try to establish contact with the dog. This is facilitated by walks, games, elementary training. Training promotes contact and shows the dog "which of the two foremost."

A dog with a good psyche, having understood in the process of training that the owner (trainer) must be obeyed, will try to fulfill his wishes and "like", that is, earn approval. Obedient, contact dogs are more easily and willingly trained to perform exhibition techniques.

So, the first is the establishment of contact between hierarchical relations "who should obey whom." Up to this point, engaging in ring training is unproductive. I recommend starting a special training with the training of a ring trot. This technique is easier than the “exhibition stand”, more interesting for the dog and does not require long exposure. Having worked out the lynx on a command as described in the previous chapter, “Training the show dog in the ring,” go on to practice showing the teeth, and then go on to receive the “exhibition stand.” When the tricks will be worked out cleanly, clearly separately, combine them in one lesson and then train the dog to complete all three tricks one after the other in a complex, as in an exhibition.

Manual control training should be carried out when the dog impeccably in different places performs the rest of the techniques - “teeth”, “lynx”, “stance”. For an adult dog, manual control is particularly difficult. The dog has already developed a character and its attitude to objects and phenomena of the world. From the very beginning it is necessary to teach the dog to relate properly to the reception. It’s not people who touch her, but she performs the handler’s command to stand still when touched and touched by a person.

The "inspection" command should block the subjective attitude of the dog to the touch of an outsider. This command should be given strictly and sharply for aggressive dogs with a sharp jerk of the collar if the dog tries to growl or snarl and affectionately soothingly if the dog does not like touching at all. The main thing is to make the dog fulfill the command required.

This technique is the only one where the dog is forced to do what is needed if it is not wanted. The remaining techniques are practiced in the game on the promotion and should give the dog pleasure.

Any, the most vicious, but mentally balanced dog can be trained to stand still with careful manual control by the "Inspection" command. And owners must be able to teach all dogs, regardless of breed and use. The physical and psychological training of the show adult dog is done as described in chapter 7, “Mental and physical preparation of the dog for the show”.

CHAPTER 7. MENTAL AND PHYSICAL PREPARATION OF THE DOG FOR EXHIBITION.

Have you seen the drooping, drooping dogs in the ring? You have heard from the owners that the dog is tired, that “we’ve been waiting since 10 a.m.,” that the dog “has never seen such a thing,” that “there is a lot of noise and dogs,” etc. So you know. Drooping, sluggish and tired dogs come to the show for three reasons:
1. the dog has a weak psyche, it does not withstand mental stress,
2. the dog is not trained to carry loads,
3. A combination of these two reasons.

The number one reason we eliminated in the chapter "Choosing a Show Dog". We will fight with reason number two. The puppy does not have the strength of the nervous system of an adult dog. He is more emotional, reacts to new things more lively and, in fact, gets tired faster. Therefore, excessive fussiness is forgiven in the ring of puppies and juniors.

Daily walking in various places, including busy ones, with a large number of people, other dogs, and transport, gradually strengthens the dog’s nervous system, tempers it, and makes it able to bear all the greater mental stresses. Along with mental stress, the dog must regularly be subjected to gradually increasing physical activity. There should be a class program from which you can not retreat.

The dog’s fatigue at the show and the associated deterioration of the show are associated with insufficient preparation or lack thereof. The dog physically gets tired of the fact that on the day of the exhibition she needs to stand, sit, walk for many hours, and she is also mentally tired of the abundance of contacts with people, other dogs. Many new experiences for an unprepared dog depress it, make it either nervous, which makes it nervous, fussy, or "goes into itself", becomes depressed, lethargic, inactive.

I propose a special training system for a well-bred dog older than 8 - 10 months old, already familiar with transport, crowds, walking in different places, willingly in contact with dogs who have undergone exhibition training. I have been successfully using this system for many years. I believe that the positive results of the training are an excellent indicator of the good physical and mental inclinations of the dog.

Preparation begins 2 months before the exhibition.

1st day - an ordinary walk + half an hour walk in a crowded place (street, market, etc.).

2nd day - a regular walk + 1 hour walk in a crowded place.

3rd day - a train ride of 20 minutes + half an hour walk in a new place for the dog (for example, the station platform).

4th day - a walk in a crowded place for half an hour + playing with a dog for 1 hour.

5th day - a walk in a crowded place for 45 minutes.

6th day - playing with a dog for 1 hour. Walk on the platform.

7th day - departure out of town. The ride is 45 minutes. Walk on the platform for half an hour. Cross country walk for two hours.

8th day - a trip by car or public transport to friends for 5 hours.

9th day - a walk through new crowded places for 1 hour. Games with a dog 1 hour. A trip by bus (car), tram, trolley bus, subway for half an hour.

10th day - a trip in transport for 1 hour. Stay with friends for 1.5 hours. Walk in a new place for 1 hour, walk on the platform for half an hour. In total, the dog moves with the owner for 8 to 10 hours.

11th day - rest. The usual walk.

12th day - see 2nd day, etc. up to 47 days.

Three days before the show, training stops and the dog walks normally (at least one and a half hours a day for any breed). The individual characteristics of the dog must be taken into account when drawing up the training schedule for this dog. If you feel that the dog is very tired after training, do not proceed to the next step. Repeat the previous one until you feel that the dog is cheerful and cheerful after training as well as before it. During and after training, the dog should be lively, “in good shape”. Make trips and trips with the dog interesting, joyful, attractive to her. Do not forget to do ring training every day in different places where you are.

I want to remind the owners of a rule familiar to all athletes: "The better the physically prepared body, the greater the load it can bear."

CHAPTER 8. TRIP TO EXHIBITION TO ANOTHER CITY.

In connection with the appearance of a large number of certificate exhibitions, it is often interesting and it makes sense to exhibit a dog in another city and even in another country. In order to win the exhibition after a tiring trip in a train, bus, car, plane, the dog must be very well prepared physically and mentally. The owner, justifying the sluggish dog, makes a pitiful impression on the expert: "She is tired on the road. We drove all night." After any road, a properly trained dog looks and feels cheerful and energetic.

However, even for trained dogs, there are some rules for a long trip to the exhibition:

1. At night, the dog should be given the opportunity to sleep! She should be calm, comfortable and convenient! Other dogs should not bother her.

2. The dog should be well-walked in the evening and in the morning - be sure to empty the intestines and bladder.

3. Do not overfeed the dog in front of the road, much less on the road, however, hungry dogs are often worried and have worse rest.

4. Try to create peace and comfort for the dog on the road. Consider whether your dog enjoys being in a compartment with another dog riding with you. A night in a stressful atmosphere can destroy the fruits of a long stage of preparation for the exhibition.

5. Make sure that the dog is pleased to be with you on the trip and you will see that in the future, even the difficult road for a trained dog will be only a welcome entertainment.

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